If you want to assess the existing condition of your HVAC system, you need an HVAC gauge! Owning one of these is critical for the health of your HVAC system.
The gauge reads the pressure of various liquids and gases in your AC system with ultimate precision. It also charges your system and reads vacuum pressure.
Perhaps their most important use is that they are crucial diagnostic tools and make it easy to service or replace a unit.
If you want to make sure you’re analyzing your HVAC gauges correctly, read this guide!
All About How HVAC Gauges Work
HVAC gauges are instruments used to measure how well an AC unit is functioning. They have three essential parts: the manifold gauge, readout gauges, and the hoses, with each having a different purpose.
First, the manifold gauge includes chamber units designed specifically to offer control over pressure and gas flow. It has three chambers: low-pressure, high-pressure, and the utility chamber.
A manifold gauge is attached to a refrigeration device so the pressure can be known. For this, the low-pressure side should be attached to a low-pressure gauge. Similarly, the high-pressure side must be connected to a high-pressure gauge.
To do so, you will need a utility port; it is used to connect a hose to the vacuum pump or add additional refrigerant to your AC system.
Furthermore, several HVAC gauges have 2 readout gauges — one for each high and low-pressure chamber. And lastly, the third part of an HVAC gauge is the hose, which controls pressurized gases passing through.
Different Types of Gauge Manifolds Explained
Though you’ll find two different kinds of gauge manifolds – digital and analog – both are designed along the same lines.
They are employed to remove polluted refrigerants to reduce cross-contamination or recharge your AC unit so it keeps working effectively.
Keep reading as we elaborate:
Analog gauge is the most widely used version. Its needle position indicates the pressure or vacuum level in your air conditioning system.
This gauge is easy to handle, and most technicians across the US and the world prefer it over other, newer variants.
However, analog gauges are error-prone! Even after knowing the fundamentals of gauge manifolds, most technicians have pressure conversion issues on them.
Digital gauges are relatively newer and provide pressure and vacuum readings in numerals. They are more precise than their counterparts, analog gauges.
In addition to that, they come with extra features to make the technician’s work simple. For example, you don’t have to convert readings. Plus, this gauge also minimizes the possibility of error.
However, HVAC manufacturers add extra features that further complicate its readings.
Operating Pressures of R-22 and R-410A
R-22 refrigerant is also called “Freon” and is discontinued since 2010. It’s a hydro-chlorofluorocarbon that contributes significantly towards Ozone. Additionally, it doesn’t absorb much heat, and your AC becomes susceptible to burnout.
Normal R-22 systems operate with high pressure of about 260 psi at 120° temperature and low pressure of about 76 psi at 45° evaporator temperature.
R-410 is also known as “Puron.” This refrigerant is recommended for use in new residential AC units.
Though it’s also a hydro-chlorofluorocarbon like the R-22, it doesn’t contribute much towards global warming. It absorbs and discharges more heat. This way, your air conditioner’s compressor remains cooler.
The typical R-410A system operates with high pressure of about 418 psi at 120° temperature and low pressure of about 130 psi at 45° evaporator temperature.
How to Read HVAC Gauges: Step-by-Step Tutorial
Before we discuss how to read HVAC gauges, it’s vital to understand color coding first, which you’ll see on each dial. Primarily, there are two colors: Red and Blue.
- Red: it reads pressure from a hose and indicates the time
- Blue: it measures the suction pressure of the compressor, and the reading varies from 0-9.99 pounds per square inch (psi). It’s based on the variation of the atmospheric pressure.
So, without further ado, here’s how you can read HVAC gauges:
Connect the high-pressure part of your unit’s cooling line with a red port on a gauge. Remember, the red gauge and port are always high-pressure gauges.
Attach the red hose (code-approved) to the high-pressure port using flare-fittings on your cooling unit.
Make sure the red hose can handle high pressure. The high-pressure port normally has a different thread pitch and size compared to the low-pressure part.
This differentiation prevents random incorrect connections.
Connect the low-pressure side with the blue port on the gauge. After that, attach the low-pressure part with the blue (low-pressure) hose and the AC unit’s pressure gauge.
This will result in a favorable flow of vacuum pressure (also called micron meter) to assess the vacuum pressure present already in the air conditioning system.
Attach the waste/vent hose to the middle of the manifold setup. If you’re going to release the unit or vent-freon it, you’ll need to connect a bigger black low-pressure hose.
This way, you will prevent violating US laws concerning refrigerant release in the atmosphere by attaching the refrigerant recovery vessel.
Attach the vacuum pressure (micron meters) or any other gauge to the remaining ports. The remaining ports can be utilized to connect micron gauges or the vacuum pump to help the air conditioning system perform adequately.
Now, carefully read out the measurements shown by the pressure gauges.
It displays pressure in refrigeration, freezing and air-conditioning, cold-filling equipment, industrial refrigerators, and even cold rooms.
For instance, if you’ve got an r22 reading on the pressure gauge and it measures 60-pounds, scales will show 1°C equal to 33.8°F.
A quick tip: The pressure gauge has similar features to a general manometer, with strict reading characteristics. The gauge utilizes weld and prevents refrigerant leaks. This way, you’ll be able to read HVAC gauges with ease.
HVAC Gauge Diagnostics
Gauge pressure is one of the first readings you should analyze when troubleshooting your AC. Therefore, We have listed down seven gauge readouts you may likely face:
Under normal circumstances, the low-pressure range should be between 18 to 28, and the high-pressure range should be between 213 to 250.
Additionally, the room temperature must be between 30 to 38 C (86 – 96 F). And the engine speed should not exceed 75% of the rated speed of the engine.
Air In Cooling System (Insufficient Suction)
If the low-pressure range is between 36 to 50 psi and the high-pressure range is between 284 to 356 psi, both rates exceed normalcy. In addition to that, it also tells us that the low side piping isn’t cold enough.
- Causes: Air in your system
- Remedy: Evacuate the unit, replenish refrigerant, check gauge readings, and liquid-tank should be replaced
Defective Expansion Valve
Like in the last scenario, if the low side pressure ranges from 30 to 36 psi and the high side 313 to 327 psi, it indicates that both high and low pressures are again more than they should be.
- Causes: Inaccurate refrigerant charge, inappropriate temperature-sensor set up, and faulty expansion valve
- Remedy: Verify the refrigerant charge, check temperature-sensor insulation and installation, or replace its expansion valve
Exceeding the trend, if the high side pressure ranges above 327 psi and the low side ranges from 36 to 43 psi, it means both are extremely high.
- Causes: Inadequate condenser cooling and pressure rise because of high refrigerant
- Remedy: Verify refrigerant level, wipe the condenser, and check fan belts or condenser fan-motors
If the high side pressure ranges between 85 to 256 psi and the low side ranges between 18 to 28 psi, it signifies that the low side switches between the normal pressure and a vacuum.
- Causes: Humidity has frozen your AC unit, clogging its expansion valve
- Remedy: Evacuate the unit, replace receiver dryer, and recharge system
Refrigerant Does Not Circulate
Suppose the low-pressure range falls between 0 to 29.99 psi and the high-pressure range is between 71 to 85 psi. In that case, the low-pressure part becomes the vacuum, resulting in condensation or frost on the rear and front pipe fittings of the expansion valve or receiver dryer.
- Causes: AC system gets clogged due to ice or contamination, causing the system to shut off due to a defective temperature sensor or expansion valve; otherwise, the AC line develops a kink
- Remedy: Halt the operation immediately, check for ice and contamination, in case there is humidity, then evacuate the unit, replace the receiver dryer, recharge with proper level, and repair kinked hoses
Tips for Calibrating HVAC Gauges
To ensure your equipment works properly, you must take care of the gauges. Recalibrate them regularly so you have efficient and accurate readings.
You can use two simple ways to calibrate gauges: simple zeroing and calibrating against real refrigerants.
Both are effective, but if you’ve got ample time, we would recommend you to perform the “actual refrigerant” method as it provides higher-quality calibration.
Before beginning, arrange for the following tools:
- The refrigerant tank (adjusted to your required room temperature)
- Adjustment screwdriver for each gauge
- Pressure temperature table for the refrigerant so that you can convert temperature-reading against the pressure you’re expecting from the gauge
- An infrared thermometer or a digital psychrometer to read the temperature
- The gauge set
Zero Your Gauges
Follow the steps below to calibrate HVAC gauges:
- Disconnect the hoses from your gauge set
- If the gauges have rubber coverings, you’ll have to bring them to zero
- Pop off the plastic lens from the faces of gauges
- To zero your gauges, turn the screw on the face of the exposed gauge. This process changes the needle’s position
- Sometimes jostling the unit can lead to the miscalibration of the gauges. So, ensure they stay zero when you replace the protective coverings
- Replace the plastic lens and gauge covers and then connect the hoses
Calibrate Gauges Using The Refrigerant
- Connect the refrigerant tank to the gauge
- Turn your tank upside-down (make sure it has room temperature refrigerant). This is to ensure that the pressure rising from the tank results from liquid and not gas.
- Open the lines to the gauges being calibrated.
- Remove the rubber and plastic lens coverings, if any, from the face of the gauges.
- If you’ve got an infrared thermometer, measure the temperature of the refrigerant.
- Use your pressure/temperature table and temperature readings to derive the actual pressure rising from the tank into the line.
- Your table number is what the gauge should display. If it’s showing correct pressure readings, then it’s calibrated.
- In case it’s not the same number, grab the screwdriver and use it to adjust the screw placed on the face of the gauge.
- Now, switch the gauges and perform this process on each gauge. Ensure the refrigerant is recovered.
- Replace all plastic lenses and the rubberized covers of gauges before starting
People Also Ask (FAQ)
Can You Use Car’s AC Gauges On A Home AC?
No, you can’t because they aren’t interchangeable. Gauges are set with specific pressures and temperatures that match the refrigerant you use.
How Can You Tell If Your Freon Is Low?
Here are some signs that indicate low Freon:
- Vents aren’t blowing cold air
- It takes longer to cool the room
- The desired temperature was never achieved
- Your power bills are higher than usual
- Ice or freezing on the refrigerant lines
What Should The Gauges Read On The R22? What Should The Pressure Be On A 410a System?
For R-22, the gauges should read between 120° (high pressure) to 45° (low pressure) temperature. On the other hand, the high pressure should be 418 psi, and the low pressure 130 psi on a 410A system.
How Do I Test My AC Gauges?
Here’s how you can test your AC gauges:
- Close all the valves on manual couplers as well as the manifold gauge. Attach the high-side coupler with the high-side port and the low-side coupler with the low-side port
- Now, turn the AC system on, and don’t turn it off till the gauge readings balance.
- If the pressure displayed on gauges varies from the manufacturer’s specifications, identify the issue and do the required troubleshooting.
Related: How To Test An HVAC Low Pressure Switch
How Do I Put Freon In My Car With Gauges?
Here’s how you can put Freon in your car with gauges:
- Find the low-pressure side port
- Attach recharge kit (the Freon or R-22 refregerent)
- Read system pressure keenly
- Charge your system
- Disconnect the charge kit, and you’re good to go
Can Anyone Buy A 410a Refrigerant?
Yes, anyone can buy a 410a refrigerant as there is no license or certification needed.
HVAC gauges are used to read the pressure of liquids & gases in your cooling system. Plus, they are also helpful when you want to read the vacuum pressure during charging or testing your AC unit.
Nevertheless, learning how to read HVAC gauges can help you keep the system efficient and healthy!