Step 1 - Understand the different types of portable ACs available

While the names and descriptions can be confusing, there are two main types of portable AC - dual-hose and single-hose. 

I recommend single-hose ACs for basic cooling and dual-hose ACs for more powerful cooling. 

I also use more niche portable ACs for my tent and RV, but they are still just single-hose ACs.

Dual vs single hose - Why dual hose ACs are generally a better choice

Almost every online guide will tell you that dual-hose ACs are better than single-hose models.

While they are typically more powerful, I use some single-hose models, like the Honeywell ‎MN4HFS9 as well and they have served me well over the years.

However, when it comes to performance, dual hose ACs are almost always the winners. The biggest reason being that dual hose ACs do not create a negative pressure inside the room.

Basically, to cool down the evaporator coils, single hose ACs suck in the air that is already inside the room thus creating a pressure gap. This literally turns your room into an air magnet that attracts air from the outside to get sucked inside your room from every nook and cranny.

Not only is this an inefficient way of cooling, but it can attract pollutants, smoke and microbes.

Dual hose ACs work similar to how traditional ACs work. Instead of using the air inside the room to cool the evaporative coil, dual hose ACs use outside air. 

You will notice that dual hose ACs often provide higher cooling and they are also generally more efficient.

Single Hose ACs do have their benefits though. They are cheaper, they are available in small BTU capacities (dual hose ACs are often limited to high cooling capacities only) and they are also portable. 

I find single-hose systems far simpler to set up and move, making them a better choice for those who need portability or less frequent cooling.

Related article: Best dual hose ACs reviewed

Ventless vs vented portable ACs - Why brands set out to confuse consumers

Ventless and vented are two terms I’ve seen thrown around by brands but all true portable air conditioners (dual-hose or single-hose) need proper ventilation out a window or door to function.

Brands label these as ventless ACs because they do offer cooling. However, just because they provide cooling doesn’t mean they’re true ACs, meaning that they use refrigerant to cool the air. 

I have covered these ventless AC alternatives in my complete guide on ventless air conditioners, and I do recommend them for situations in which venting is tricky. 

It’s not as powerful as most portable ACs, but it does use refrigerant to provide real AC-level cooling.

Why evaporative coolers are not air conditioners

I have seen a lot of people get tripped up thinking that evaporative coolers, or 'swamp coolers' are the same as air conditioners. They aren't, and they work completely differently.

The AC mechanism is more complicated, requiring a compressor and refrigerant, but achieves much better results. 

However, they rely on moisture and are ineffective in humid conditions. I only recommend them for personal, short-term cooling in a dry environment.

Camping / tent air conditioners (often battery powered)

Compact, portable ACs designed for outdoor use are typically called camping, tent, or RV air conditioners.

I don’t recommend tent ACs for home use beyond emergency cooling, but they can be a lifesaver for outdoor summer adventures.

I use them when out adventuring or occasionally in my garage workshop when the temperature spikes. 

For me, the main considerations are cooling output, power options & charge time, and weight.

Related article: Top rated portable camping ACs reviewed

Step 2 - Choosing the right cooling capacity of your portable AC

The size of your portable AC is as important as the make or model. I recommend measuring the space(s) you will use it in and choosing a BTU capacity to match.

What’s the size of the room that needs cooling?

Understanding the room size you’re cooling will allow you to choose the most suitable portable AC. Follow these steps:

To work out the area of irregularly shaped rooms, I split the space into rectangular sections, measure, and add the square footage figures together. 

I recommend checking the specs for RVs and tents to get accurate measurements.

You should be left with an accurate room size so you can choose an AC with BTU capacity to match.

What BTU capacity portable AC to go for

What is BTU and why does it matter?

BTU stands for British Thermal Unit, measuring how much heat an air conditioner can remove from a space per hour. 

The BTU rating is the cooling output of the AC and should match the size of the space and the environmental conditions. Larger spaces need more BTU, and hot conditions need more BTU. 

An AC with the wrong BTU capacity will either be ineffective or inefficient. 

I typically find 20-40 BTUs per square foot is about right, but it can vary.

* These figures are based on ideal cases with standard ceiling height, good insulation, average equipment, and average sun exposure. The actual BTU you need may differ.

ASHRAE vs SACC DOE BTU ratings

There are two commonly used variations of BTU ratings:

Short cycling vs undercooling - The importance of choosing the right BTU

I can’t stress enough how important the BTU sizing is for portable ACs.

If oversized (too high a BTU rating), it will short cycle - with the unit switching on and off constantly, wasting energy .

If it’s undersized (too low a BTU rating), it will run nonstop but undercool the space, so the room never gets comfortably cool. 

Take the time to calculate the right portable AC BTU if you want to avoid sweating or paying higher energy bills.

How to calculate the BTU capacity you actually need

I’ve learned from experience that the actual BTU capacity you need will depend on several factors. Here are the rules I use to find the accurate BTU requirements:

Example calculations

So as an example, for a 350 sq ft room in a hot 95°F climate, with poor insulation, 3 occupants, a TV, and west-facing windows:

8,000 base BTU rating based on room size + 1,500 (hot climate) + 2,400 (insulation) + 600 (extra occupant) + 400 (TV) + 400 (windows) = 13,300 BTUs needed.

Remember, these BTU ratings and adjustments are just a rough guide based on my experience, but accounting for these factors will help you size more accurately.

The BTU range available for portables ACs

Portable ACs typically range from 5,000 to 15,000 BTUs (ASHRAE), with some smaller tent ACs under 3,000 BTUs.

The BTU output will vary depending on the design, size, and intended use of the AC:

Related article: 12000 BTU ACs compared

Should you trust a model’s official rated coverage?

The BTU ratings for different portable ACs are useful to help you buy the right size, but I only use them as a rough guide.

As with many marketing schemes, a brand is always going to focus on what makes them appear to be the best, and sometimes that means making understanding the specs as tricky as possible. 

I recommend carefully considering your home environment, working out what you need, and using the BTU rating as a guide.

You'll quickly learn whether you need more or less cooling in your home. 

The table below gives approximate BTU ratings needed in different scenarios:

Step 3 - Learn about EER and why it matters

The EER is the efficiency rating of the unit. Portable ACs are not held to the same energy standards as central units, but more efficient models can save you money in the long run. 

I recommend understanding the efficiency vs upfront cost vs frequency of use to get the best long-term value.

What is the SEER/EER rating of portable ACs

There are two efficiency ratings used for portable ACs: EER and SEER:

The average EER rating is between 6 and 10, and I consider anything above 8 excellent. Tent ACs are typically under 7 EER.

The average SEER is slightly lower, typically 4-8, and I consider anything above 7 good. Tent ACs are usually under 5 SEER.

Portable AC efficiency vs other AC systems

The easy venting and portable design of portable ACs create inefficiencies compared to ducted central or mini-split ACs or fixed window ACs.

I have used some impressive modern ACs (like the 10.8 EER Whynter ARC-1230WN), but they usually have lower EER than other AC systems. 

Here's how they compare:

Are portable ACs energy star certified?

While I have seen some models advertised as ENERGY STAR certified, I haven’t found any portable air conditioners actually listed on the government Energy Star website. 

ENERGY STAR certification shows that appliances meet strict criteria for energy efficiency set by the US Department of Energy and involves independent testing. 

The program doesn’t seem to cover portable ACs and focuses more on room, window, or central ACs,

I recommend sticking to the EER and SEER ratings.

How to determine their running cost

You can work out the approximate running costs using the:

Calculation: 

(BTU rating x 0.9) / ( EER x 1000) x Electricity Rate = Cost per hour 

Example:

So, for example, if you assume a BTU of 8000, a EER of 8, and an average electricity rate of $0.15 per kWh:

(8000 x 0.9) / (8x1000) x 0.15 = $0.135 per hour 

You can multiply this figure by the usage hours to get the daily, monthly, and annual running costs.

The larger the portable AC, the greater the running costs but the more you can save with a higher EER model. 

The table below illustrates the annual costs for different portable AC sizes and EER ratings, assuming a $0.15kWh rate and 500 usage hours annually.

Related article: Comprehensive guide on portable AC energy usage

Do I really need a high EER portable AC?

Higher EER portable air conditioners are more energy-efficient, which can lead to lower electricity bills over time. On average, an increase of 2 EER can save 20-30% in running costs. 

However, while that saving can be significant on paper, I find high EER portable ACs are often not worth a higher upfront cost because it can take years to recoup the extra money spent. 

In my experience, higher EER portable ACs are usually only worthwhile if:

Working out the cost savings

That means you pay around $200 more for an EER rating two points higher.

If we assume they are both used in identical conditions and produce 12000 BTUs, here are the differences in running costs:

In this example, you must run the higher-EER portable AC for 850-2,500 hours to realize the savings! 

Good quality portable ACs can last 6-10 years, so you need to use them for at least 150-500 hours a year to justify the cost of the higher-EER model.

Is a higher EER portable AC worth it in hotter climates?

Investing in a 2 EER more efficient model can lower your running costs by 20-25%, but you only see a significant dollar saving when you use the portable AC frequently.

I only recommend spending more on high EER models if you use them for more than 150 hours a year. 

Efficient portable ACs can save you a lot of money in hotter climates because you will run them frequently (often daily). 

The table below shows how climate can impact usage and running costs:

Step 4: Consider the noise levels of portable ACs

Portable ACs can be surprisingly noisy in a small space. To maximize comfort and prevent disruption, I recommend: 

How loud are different dB levels

I appreciate that we don't think of things in terms of decibels, so let me give you a frame of reference:

Portable air conditioners are usually around 50-65 decibels, around the level of a standard conversation.

What is the average noise level of portable ACs

Portable air conditioners usually operate at around 42-70 dB. The decibel rating you need will vary depending on where you plan on using it.

I recommend:

Dual-hose models typically run 5-10 decibels louder than single-hose portable ACs because the two/fan exhaust system generates more noise.

Related article: Check out top quietest portable ACs here

Comparing portable AC noise level with window and mini split ACs

Despite being the most compact AC systems, portable ACs tend to be louder than window, mini-split, or central AC units for 3 key reasons:

The table below shows the relative noise levels:

Noise you perceive is related to how close you are to your AC

My 50 dB portable AC can often seem louder than my high-powered 80 dB central AC system. There are three key reasons for that:

Even window ACs are less noisy because the compressor is outside your home.

How to minimize the noise

Unlike window ACs, you can position your portable AC to limit the noise. Alongside buying a quieter model, I recommend:

Step 5: The physical footprint of portable ACs

Make sure you have enough area in your room

Measure the space accurately and find an AC that will fit because one of the biggest mistakes I see homeowners make is assuming all portable ACs are compact enough to fit anywhere. 

Unlike mounted window ACs or central ACs fitted out of the way, portable ACs take up physical floor space and you may need to move things to fit it in.

Average sizes of portables AC

Portable ACs come in all shapes and sizes. There are ultra-compact tent ACs like the Zero Breeze Mark 2, and some, like the 19.6" x 17.5" x 34.6" LG LP1419IVSM, have a much larger footprint. 

Generally small portable ACs have a footprint of less than 10,000 cubic feet.

Related article: Small portable ACs reviewed and rated

In my experience, two main factors influence the size of the AC:

Despite the different dimensions, there are similarities across models:

The table below shows the average dimensions for different ACs, but I recommend checking the portable AC specs for the exact dimensions.

Step 6: Placement and venting options

Place near a window is recommended for easy venting

Window venting is usually the simplest solution and my go-to option. Window venting is done with a window kit, sealing the exhaust hose in place. 

Most portable ACs have a vent hose around 5-10 feet (with extension options), so for easy venting, I recommend placing your AC no more than 8 feet from the window with space to run the exhaust hose out.

If there’s no window available, you can use a door, but then you’ll have to seal up the entire door, which is more work and looks very noticeable.

Related article: Portable air conditioner venting options guide for DIY users

Portable ACs have to be vented to the outdoors instead of indoors

Portable ACs need cool air to remove heat and moisture and must be vented inside. Venting inside could raise the temperature in your home and make the AC ineffective. I've even seen improper venting damage AC systems. 

Find a window or door and use it to vent the portable AC.

Can you lengthen the hose?

The hose length dictates where you can place the unit.

The standard hose length is 6-10 feet, but some portable ACs have optional extension kits reaching 25-30 feet. 

These ultra-long extensions do have some benefits, but there are three major drawbacks:

I only recommend lengthening the exhaust hose if absolutely necessary and instead trying to move the AC closer to a window or door.

You will need to get a portable AC window/door kit

Window kits create a seal around the exhaust, preventing hot air from entering the unit and allowing the AC to run efficiently.

Most portable ACs I’ve bought come with a window kit, but you’ll have to buy your own in some cases. 

There are two options:

Related article: Top rated portable AC window kits

Which is best?

I normally use plate kits for doors and fabric kits for windows but most work on either. However, I recommend checking the specific specs before you buy to make sure it’s compatible with your windows and doors. 

Kit for sliding vs casement windows

I've had some challenges installing window kits on casement and sliding windows, but most kits will work on them. It's just more complex.

I recommend considering the types of windows you're venting through and the kit you need to buy with your portable AC.

Dual hose vs single hose kits

The hose kit you need will depend on whether you have a single or dual-hose portable AC:

Check the number of outlets on your portable AC and find a window/door kit that is compatible.

Step 7: What condensate draining option is suitable for you?

As the air cools in your portable AC, condensate (moisture) forms and gathers in the system. This condensate must be emptied from the system.

The drainage options will vary between portable ACs and I recommend considering which is best for you so you can choose the right model.

Do portable ACs have to be drained?

All portable ACs create condensate, but not all portable ACs need drainage. It depends on the portable AC and the mechanism:

Drainage options available

If you have a partially self-evaporative portable AC the draining method will vary depending on your unit:

Manual self-draining (bucket, pans)

Operation:

Self-draining portable ACs rely on you manually emptying the unit by placing a pan or bucket under the AC and opening the spigot to let water drain out. Once empty, you just pour the water away.

Best for?

I only recommend this drainage in less humid conditions where less frequent emptying is needed.

Using a garden hose (ATTN: This relies on gravity)

Operations:

This draining method involves attaching a hose to the portable AC and connecting it to a low drain. Gravity pulls the water down the hose into a floor drain or lower-level drainage system. It won’t work if you need to pump water upwards. 

Best for?

I like the effortless continuous drainage option for removing moisture quickly. I recommend it for ACs in a garage, basement, or ground floor room with an accessible drainage point.

Using condensate pump

Operation: 

A condensate pump connects to your AC through a hose and pumps moisture up and out of your home - I usually it in my garage to direct water up and through the window because I don’t have a floor drain. 

Best for?

It’s cost vs convenience, but condensate pump draining is ideal for hot, wet environments and homes without floor drains.

I highly recommend it for those living in humid areas with lots of condensate to drain.

Step 8: Are self evaporating units worth it?

My customers often have confusion over self-evaporating portable ACs, because that word evaporative is often tied to evaporative coolers.

As I noted in my section above, evaporative coolers are not portable ACs.  The difference couldn't be more different:

How do self evaporating models work?

Self evaporating portable ACs use patented technologies to make the units' condensation drainage as hands-off as possible (under normal working conditions). 

There are two primary ways that these models remove condensation out of the exhaust:

The downside is that self-evaporating units are often more expensive upfront. However, I find that the cost is offset by how often I have to empty a condensation bin!

Step 10: Power and wall outlet considerations

Portable ACs can run using a wall outlet, battery pack (like the EcoFlow Wave 2), or alternative power source. 

Related article: Check out top battery powered air conditioners

I recommend checking the power source options and where you have available wall outlets, as this will impact your installation and placement.

Place the AC with wall outlet into consideration

I recommend planning your installation so your portable AC sits comfortably within 4-5 feet of the outlet. Most ACs have a 5-7 foot power cord, but it can vary, so check before you buy. 

Can you use extension cords?

I have used extension cords in specific installations, but I try to avoid it for 3 main reasons:

I recommend placing your AC where it can reach the outlet. If you must use an extension, invest in heavy-duty extension cords- like the Iron Forge Cable.

These are 15-20 amp rated and can handle the AC’s power needs without any voltage drop issues.

A dedicated branch circuit is recommended

A dedicated branch circuit is a circuit that has just one appliance, limiting the power draw and letting it function without tripping the circuit breaker.

I always use a dedicated circuit for central ACs, but it's not always necessary for portables.

Home circuits can handle 15-20 amps, usually enough for portables, but it all depends on the power draw of the unit:

15 AMP vs 20 AMP circuit

Your home circuits will either be 15 or 20 amps - this is the maximum amount of power draw they can manage before the circuit trips to prevent a surge.

You can check the amps by looking in the breaker/fuse box. 

In my experience, 20 amp circuits are best for portable ACs because they are less likely to trip the breaker.

However, all but the largest portable ACs (12,000 BTU+) will work on a 15 amp circuit.

115 vs 220 volts

Voltage is the power supplied from your outlet, and most homes run on 115-120V power . Most portable ACs are rated for 115-120 voltage, and I've only seen pricy commercial units require 220-240V for extra cooling power.

Step 11: Do you also need heating?

I don’t usually recommend portable AC/heater combo units unless you have limited space and need heating and cooling in a small room without using two appliances. There are three reasons for this:

While combo portable ACs can save you money on buying a separate heater, I find they only work in mild conditions in a small space.

Related article: Top rated portable AC with heater combo compared

Step 12: How difficult is it to maintain

I prefer low-maintenance appliances and recommend portable ACs that take less work. I look for models that require the least possible manual input, ideally with the following:

However, all portable ACs require more hands-on maintenance than central, mini-split, or window AC systems. It’s important to understand the maintenance requirements and stick to a consistent maintenance schedule.

Are the filters washable?

Portable AC air filters collect dust and airborne particles. Top-tier portable ACs have built-in air purification systems, but they all have at least a basic filter. 

Proper maintenance of these filters is vital, and there are two options:

I recommend washable filters because they are more economical and can save you $50-$100 over the lifetime of the AC. 

However, disposal filters are best for those who prefer low-maintenance models. 

Is the condensate spigot easy to access and drain?

If you are considering a partially self-evaporative portable AC, I recommend ensuring the spigot is easy to access and the AC is placed so you can drain it easily. I prefer units that fit a small bucket underneath, not just a tray. 

Trust me, this easy-access draining will save lots of time in the long run.

What automatic restart features does it have?

Power cuts happen across the US, and I hate spending hours resetting my appliances after an outage.

Modern portable ACs, like the Frigidaire FHPC132AB1, have automatic restart features that will restore the system settings as soon as the power comes back on, meaning there’s no manual input needed.

If you want uninterrupted cooling, I highly recommend an AC with an automatic restart feature- particularly for those living in outage-prone areas.

Does it give reminders?

I have a lot of appliances running in my home, and it's a challenge to stay on top of them. I value ACs with automatic reminders which tell me exactly what maintenance is needed.

These reminders can be indicator lights on the unit or app notifications (depending on the model). 

If you lead a busy life, I highly recommend a portable AC with reminders/alerts.

Step 13: Other quality of life considerations

I recommend finding a portable AC that looks good and is easy to use. These aren’t the most important factors, but they can help you get more from your AC.

Is it aesthetically appealing?

One of the biggest changes I have seen with ACs over the past decade is the design. Modern portable ACs are not just more compact and powerful, they also blend into the home. 

I'm not as picky with my outdoor ACs, but I prefer residential ACs with unobtrusive designs, sleek shapes, and neutral colors. 

Most brands have some stylish options, but these are the brands I recommend for the most aesthetic portable ACs:

Is it remote controlled?

I look for portable ACs with remote controls because I often install units in hard-to-reach places. In my experience, any mid-range and high-end portable ACs (over $300) have remote control options, with two varieties:

I recommend always buying a portable AC with a remote control because it makes life easier. I prefer app control because it has a longer range and provides diagnostics - but these units are more expensive.

I recommend always buying a portable AC with a remote control because it makes life easier. 

I prefer app control because it has a longer range and provides diagnostics - but these units are more expensive.

Does it provide WiFi and smart connectivity

Portable ACs with ‘smart’ connectivity can connect to the internet and integrate with other appliances.

They have become increasingly popular because they let you:

The downside of this functionality is that it is a lot more expensive and is only found in top-tier portable ACs, like the Frigidaire FGPC1044U1, Midea MAP12S1TBL, and Whynter ARC-1230WN. 

I love smart appliances, but I only recommend WiFi-enabled portable ACs for those with flexible budgets and more demanding cooling needs.

Step 14: Consider the warranty coverage

Warranties are one of my key considerations because they help to protect the investment and give value for money.  

Most portable AC warranties range from 1-5 years, but you usually get more coverage on more expensive units:

At a minimum, I recommend a 1-year warranty for affordable portable ACs and 3 years for high-end portable ACs.

Step 15: Choosing the right brand

Popular portable AC brands to look out for

Choosing the right brand is half the battle, and that’s why I always go back to the same names time and time again.

Portable AC brands to avoid

Almost every brand has at least one decent model to choose from, but there are four brands I recommend avoiding based on my experience:

Step 16: How much do you want to spend?

I recommend budgeting at least $400-$500 for a good-quality portable AC - but your budget needs to match your cooling needs. 

High BTU models will cost more, and you should be prepared to spend more to get the cooling you need (see Step 2 to work out your BTU requirements).

What impacts the price?

There are portable ACs to suit a range of budgets:

These are the main factors I’ve seen noticeably impact the price:

Portable AC vs window AC cost

Window ACs are generally less expensive for the same BTU capacity, which means you get more cooling output for the price.

However, window ACs offer less flexibility in placement and can only be used on one fixed area. 

If you only need to cool one room, I recommend exploring window AC options because they can be 20-50% cheaper. 

However, if you need more versatility, portability, and less frequent cooling, you can’t beat a portable AC.

Average price vs BTU output

The bottom line is that the BTU output is the most important factor. You can downgrade the tech, features, and aesthetics, but you can’t scrimp on the cooling output. Always budget for an AC with enough BTU for the job.

The table below shows the average price for portable ACs and window ACs with different cooling capacities:

Note: The cost is determined by more than the BTU and this table just shows the average price range for different cooling capacities.